This very Edwardian necklace belongs to a moment around 1900 when jewelers were trying to make metal disappear. Their aim was lightness: openwork, pale stones, translucent enamel. Here, the plique-à-jour enamel is green and gorgeous. The technique suspends enamel in tiny cells without a metal backing, so light can pass straight through it, stained-glass-style.
Plique-à-jour had older roots, but it enjoyed a major revival around the turn of the 20th century, especially in Art Nouveau jewelry. It was difficult to make: the enamel had to survive firing while spanning the tiny openings unsupported.
The green palette is also very much of the period. Around 1900, jewelers were increasingly interested in color, natural forms, and atmosphere over expensive showy gemstones. Paste, marcasite, silver, and enamel could be combined for OTHERWORLDLY VIBES rather than intrinsic value.
MATERIALS: silver, green enamel, green paste, marcasite
AGE: c. 1900
CONDITION: Very good
SIZE: 14 1/2" length, 1 1/4" x 1/2" pendant