During what’s known as the “Grand Period” of the Victorian era - 1860-1885 - architectural discoveries around the world fueled a passion for ancient history. Long-lost civilizations were an unbearably romantic idea to many 19th century Westerners. The European jewelry market was ready for a period of ancient revival styles: Greek, Egyptian, Etruscan. This last one is what we’re looking at here. The Etruscan civilization flourished in central Italy between the 8th and 3rd century BCE. Before much of its culture was either obliterated or assimilated into that of its conqueror, Rome, they produced some OUTSTANDING jewelry that looked sort of like this. Victorian jewelers actually struggled to understand how the Etruscans had produced such fine texture and wirework and spent lots of time trying to reverse-engineer the process, with varying results. Here, a very Victorian half hoop style ring set with rubies and embellished with Etruscan-esque granulation and twisted wire.
MATERIALS: 18k gold (tests), 5 rubies (2mm - 2.5mm)
AGE: c. 1870
CONDITION: Very good - slight rubbing along the table facets; engraving along the hoop is worn
SIZE: 6.75, can be resized; 4.8mm head, 1.7mm shank